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Whanganui National Park is located in the
centre of the vast expanse of low altitude lands that stretch
westwards from the Central Volcanic Plateau of the North Island,
towards Mt Taranaki and the Tasman sea.
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Specific
references for this page:
Craig
Potton 1998: National
Parks of New Zealand. Craig Potton Publishing.
Gerald
Cubitt and Les Molloy 1994:Wild
New Zealand. New Holland.
Llyod
Homer and Les Molloy 1988: The Fold of the Land - New
Zealand's National Parks from the Air. Allen &
Unwin/DSIR
Conservation
Management Strategy, Wanganui Conservancy. Department
of Conservation 1997.
Robbie
Burton & Maggie Atkinson 1998: A
Tramper's Guide to New Zealand's National Parks. Reed
Guide
to the Wanganui River. New Zealand Canoeing Association.
John
Cobb 1990: The Walking Tracks of New Zealand's National
Parks. Viking.
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This is a very distinctive
landscape of dense river valley systems with steep slopes and
razor-sharp ridges, with an almost complete cover of native
lowland forest. The whole area is sparsely populated, with no
large urban centre and few roads. Located at its centre, Whanganui
National Park is a wild area with little road access. Now as
in pre-European and early European times the Whanganui River
provides the main access route to these lands. The river is
easily navigable for over 170 km (105 miles) through the park
and is used by thousands of canoeists each year.
See below: Activities - What to see and do in Whanganui National Park
Geological
setting
The Whanganui National Park is part of a sedimentary basin,
where thousands of metres of sediment were accumulated between
the late Tertiary and mid-Quaternary periods. The phase of uplift
started in the north in late Miocene and extended gradually
south. The rocks are mostly mudstones ('papa'), with occasional
sandstones and limestones.
The soft mudstones are easily eroded, and the old uplifted marine
surface has been almost completetely destroyed by the down-cutting
of streams and gullies. A dendritic drainage pattern has evolved,
with all streams gradually feeding into the Whanganui River.
Most valley sides are steep, with narrow alluvial terraces only
along the larger rivers.
The altitudes are generally comprised between 500-700 m (1640-2296'),
the Matemateaonga Range culminating at 746 m (2447') at Te Mapou.
The
Whanganui River
The Whanganui River is the longest navigable river in New Zealand,
and the main accessway to Whanganui National Park. It starts
its course on the north-western flank of the Tongariro volcanoes
and flows mostly to the north-west until Taumarunui, where it
takes its southerly course to the Tasman Sea. The gradient of
the river is gentle: 150 km (93 miles) from its mouth the altitude
is still only 70 m (229'). Although over 200 rapids are named
between Taumarunui and Pipiriki, most of them drop less than
1 metre (3'). The river is easily navigable, the most used by
canoeists in New Zealand. West of the Volcanic Plateau the Whanganui
River and its eastern affluents have a muddy colour, caused
by sediment in suspension eroded from the soft mudstone.
Climatic
conditions
The general conditions are moderate. Rainfall increases from
900 - 1250 mm (35-49 in.) per year in the south, to 1200 - 2000
mm (47-79 in.) per year in the north. Summers are warm, winters
are moderate to cool.
Vegetation
Whanganui National Park is extensively forested.
Before European settlement, natural non forested areas were
restricted to small areas of wetland on valley floors.
The main forest types are podocarp/broadleaf on the slopes,
and black beech on the narrow ridge crests. Rimu is dominant
among the podocarp (although they were largely extracted for
timber), while tawa is the most common broadleaf species. Other
common trees include kahikatea, rewarewa, pukatea, and kamahi.
Other forest types are mostly regenerating vegetation following
earlier clearing. They include manuka and tree fern in the early
stages, with mahoe and kamahi becoming progressively more dominant.
Wildlife
The extensive forests provide habitat for many species of native
forest birds. There are large numbers of brown kiwi, robins,
bellbirds, New Zealand pigeons, whiteheads, tuis, fantails,
grey warblers, kingfishers and silvereyes. The populations of
kaka and yellow-crowned parakeets are limited and in decline,
while the presence of kokako is not confirmed. Blue ducks are
found in some rivers.
Eels and lampreys are common in the Whanganui River and its
tributaries, and 18 species of native fresh-water fish have
been recorded in the park, including the endangered short-jawed
and giant kokopu.
Short
and day walks
In the north of Whanganui National Park, not
far from Taumaranui, the Te Maire and Maraekowhai walks give
access to the Whanganui River. Both tracks cross pockets of
native podocarp forest that include tall specimens of rimu,
kahikatea, totara and matai. Maraekowhai, at the confluence
of the Whanganui and Ohura rivers, is the site of a 19th century
stronghold of Hauhau warriors.
Further south the next access to the park is at
Pipiriki, from where the road follows the Whanganui River all
the way to Wanganui. There are a number of walks at Pipiriki,
with fine views of the river. The area was once extensively
cultivated for wheat, and remnants of old mills can be visited,
either in a restored state, or abandoned and overwhelmed by
the regenerating bush.
Further south again the Atene Skyline Track is a
longer, day walk that passes through fine stands of lowland
native forest. There are fine views along the track, towards
Ruapehu, Mt Taranaki, as well as the Whanganui River valley
and its tributaries. Image on right:
Canoeing on the Whanganui River. Photo courtesy Ruapehu Tourism.
Tramping
There are two major tramping tracks in Whanganui
National Park. The Matemateaonga Track follows the pilot track
built in 1911 for the then planned Whakaihuwaka Road. Construction
of the road was abandoned at the outbreak of World War I. This
is a high standard, well graded walk, with good huts, usually
done in 3-4 days. It traverses the ridges of the Matemateaonga
Range, in very rugged and thickly forested terrain.
The Mangapura/Kaiwhakauka Track links the valleys of the Mangapura
and Kaiwhakauka rivers, both tributaries of the Whanganui River.
This land was farmed between WW I and II, and there are many
remnants of that activity, including the famous Bridge to Nowhere,
a large concrete bridge that stands abandoned in the bush. From
Mangapurua Trig there are fine views over Tongariro National
Park and Mt Taranaki.
The track follows former roadlines and makes for easy walking.
It is usually done in 3-4 days. There are no huts, but instead
an abundance of camping sites.
Canoeing
The park is best known for the journey
down the Whanganui River. Both Canadian canoes and kayaks are
suitable. The trip from Taumaranui to Pipiriki takes an average
of 5 days by canoe. Other entry points on the river allow for
shorter trips. There are 3 huts and a number of campsites along
the way.
Fishing
Hunting
Hunting of pigs, goats and fallow deer in the park is encouraged
but hunting from tracks and in the main Whanganui River valley
is restricted between October and April. Permits are required
and can be obtained from Department of Conservation Offices.
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