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Urewera National Park was created in 1954 with
an area of 49,000 hectares (122,500 acres).
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Specific
references for this page:
Gerald
Cubitt and Les Molloy 1994: Wild
New Zealand. New Holland.
Craig
Potton 1998: National
Parks of New Zealand. Craig Potton Publishing.
Draft
Conservation Management Strategy East Coast Conservancy
1995-2005. Department of Conservation
Llyod
Homer and Les Molloy 1988: The Fold of the Land - New
Zealand's Parks from the Air. DSIR/Allen & Unwin
New
Zealand National Parks. Collins Nature Heritage Series
1979.
Handbook
to the Urewera National Park Third Edition 1975. Urewera
National Park Board.
Robbie
Burton & Maggie Atkinson 1998: A
Tramper's Guide to New Zealand's National Parks. Reed
Mark
Pickering 1997: New
Zealand's Top Tracks - A Guide to the Department's of
Conservation's Great Walks. Reed.
John
Kent: North
Island Trout Fishing Guide. Reed.
John
Cobb 1990: The Walking Tracks of New Zealand's National
Parks. Viking.
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Further additions
have enlarged it to its current 213,000 hectares (532,500 acres),
making it both the largest national park and the largest area
of original native forest in the North Island. This is a remote,
mountainous, very rugged land. Forest cover is almost total,
and the tops of the two highest points (Manuhoa 1393 m/4570'
and Maungapohatu 1366 m /4482') barely rise above the tree line.
These forests are still inhabited by some of the
most endangered native birds of New Zealand, such as kiwi, kokako,
kaka and blue duck. Lakes Waikaremoana and Waikareiti are two
major lanforms born of the geological history of the park, and
contribute greatly to its recreational attraction.
See below: Activities - What to see and do in Urewera National Park
Geological
setting
Urewera National Park straddles the Huiau and Ikawhenua
Ranges, in the east of the North Island between Bay of Plenty
and Hawke's Bay. These ranges are part of the mountain axis
of the North Island, which stretches over 650 km (404 miles)
from Wellington to the East Cape. The main rock types in these
mountains are the series of mostly sandstones and argillites
of Triassic to Cretaceous ages generically referred to as greywacke,
which form the north and western parts of the park.
The southern and eastern parts, by contrast, are
made of the younger (Tertiary) sandstones and siltstones of
the Wairoa Basin. Their uplift has formed the higher ranges
of the park (Panekiri, Ngamoko, Huiarau ranges), around Lake
Waikaremoana, with a series of spectacular ridges and bluffs
(Panekiri Bluff).
See also: the Mountains
of New Zealand
A mantle
of volcanic ash and pumice
In the last 20,000 years the whole area has been
mantled by several layers of volcanic deposits, such as pumice
and ashes, corresponding to eruption phases of the Taupo volcano.
Apart from the steepest areas where they have been eliminated,
these deposits are found throughout the park and may reach a
thickness of 3 metres (10 ') in places.
See also the Volcanoes
of New Zealand
A fault-induced
topography
The major ridges and river valleys of the park are
parallel to each other, creating a distinctive topographical
pattern that appears clearly on maps. The directions are north-north-east
to south-south-west in the southern sector, and north-south
in the northern sector. They correspond to a series of faults
that are followed by rivers.
These faults are related to the tectonic setting
of the North Island axial ranges, which are compressed and uplifted
under the strain generated by the subduction of the Pacific
tectonic plate under the North Island. The fault that lies in
the Whakatane River valley can be traced southwards more or
less continuously to the Wellington Fault.
Hot springs at Waiohau and in the upper Waiau catchment
are a by-product of faulting of the earth's crust, where water
can circulate quickly to great depths before coming back to
the surface.
See also the
Tectonics of New Zealand, and Active
faults of New Zealand
Lakes
and earthquakes
Lakes and rivers are, with the forest, the outstanding
natural features of the Urewera National Park.
Lake Waikaremoana, at an altitude of 580 m (1903'),
was created about 2300 years ago when a wedge of sandstone and
siltstone, nearly 3 km (1.86 miles) long, slid down from the
south-western end of the Ngamoko Range, thus damming the Waikaretaheke
River. The landslide was probably caused by an earthquake.
Similar phenomena probably created Lake Waikareiti,
which is located 300 m (984') higher and 4 km (2.5 miles) northeast
of Lake Waikaremoana. Lake Waikareiti contains six islands and
has no obvious outlet. It lies in a gently undulating basin
densely forested with red and silver beech, beside areas of
wetland and marshy clearings.
Many waterfalls
There are many waterfalls in the rivers of the park,
usually formed over sandstone sills after softer mudstones have
been eroded away. Some, such as the Aniwaniwa, the Papakorito,
the Mokau and the Hopuruahine, are located on the streams that
flow into Lake Waikaremoana and are easily accessible. Many
others can only be discovered while tramping further into the
forest.
Climatic
conditions
The Urewera's wide range of land and altitudes results in equally
diverse climatic conditions. The weather is generally milder
north of the Huirau range, cooler and wetter south of it. The
annual rainfall ranges for 1500 mm (59 in.) in the north to
3200 mm (126 in.) in the south, evenly spread throughout the
year. In winter snow falls frequently on the summits of the
southern ranges, but does not usually lie there for long.
Vegetation
The forests of Urewera National Park are especially
diverse. While variations depend on a number of factors such
as soil type, rainfall and location, the prevalent influence
is altitude. The general pattern in the park is of transition
at 800 m (2625') from rimu/northern rata/tawa forest to beech/rimu
forest. Above 900 m (2953') rimu disappears and the forest is
dominated by one or several species of beech which extend up
to the tops (these altitudes are approximate and may vary from
place to place due to the large area of the park).
Luxuriant
lowland forests of the north
The lowland forests of the northern part of the
park are characterised by kohekohe associated with tawa, pukatea
and mangeao. In this zone rainfall is 1500-2000 mm (59-78 in.)
per year, and the soils are developed on a layer of rhyolitic
vocanic ash overlying the greywacke bedrock. Tall rimu and rata
form a scattered upper layer, while the undergrowth is rich
in species of tree ferns, nikau palms, vines, epiphytes, and
many ferns.
The lowland forest in the south-west of the park,
the Waiau Valley in particular, are different from elsewhere
in the park in that they contain high proportions of matai and
totara.
High altitude
rainforests
Rainfall is highest in the eastern part (2000 mm/78
in. and more), corresponding to the highest altitudes, and the
rhyolitic ash cover is thinnest. There are many swampy areas,
where mountain cedars kaikawaka (Librocedrus plumosa)
are found. On higher ground, above 1200 m (3937'), pure silver
beech cover the crest of the ranges, their trunks and branches
festooned by mosses, lichens and filmy ferns.
Podocarp-rich
pumiceous valley floors
Throughout the park the influence of soil is especially
felt on the river terraces of the deepest valleys and gorges,
where a general type of forest can be recognised. There the
large podocarps - rimu, matai, totara and kahikatea - are more
numerous than on the valley sides, and rata are absent. These
trees appear to be more numerous where pumice is thickest.
Other types of vegetation include limited subalpine
scrub and montane mires with sedgeland, herbfields and aquatic
plant communities. The south of the park is a stronghold for
the wild populations of kowhai gnutukaka (kakabeak).
Wildlife
Because of its large size and diversity of habitats, Urewera
National Park supports a wide range of wildlife species, with
at least 48 species of birds, and including some of the largest
populations of several endangered species.
A refuge
for endangered birds
The largest surviving population of kokako is found
in the north of the park. Other endangered birds include kiwi,
red and yellow-crowned parakeets, kaka, New Zealand pigeon,
New Zealand falcon, and blue duck. There have been unconfirmed
sightings of the officially extinct bush wren and piopio. There
are many other native birds in the forests, such as morepork,
tui, bellbird, New Zealand pipit, fantail, whitehead, grey warbler,
tomtit, North Island robin. Water birds include ducks, shags,
gulls, kingfishers and the white-faced heron.
Other wildlife include the native long and short-tailed bats,
green gecko, skinks, a species of the large landsnail Powelliphanta,
and native fish kukupa.
Introduced
species
A range of introduced species also inhabit the park,
including possums, deer, pigs, goats, cats, rats, dogs, mice
and mustelids. While most of them threaten the indigenous fauna,
flora or their habitats, the primary threats are possums, goats
and deer. A high priority has been set for the control of goats
and possums, with the highest priority being sustained possum
control in the northern Urewera and at Manuhoa.
Short
and day walks
There is a good number of walks on well graded
tracks at lake Waikaremoana, within easy reach of the road or
of the Aniwaniwa Visitor Centre.
Short walks lead to sandy bays on Lake Waikaremoana
at Whatapo Bay, Te Maraateatua Point and Te Whero Bay, while
good views can be enjoyed from Lou's Lookout. Longer walks to
Panekiri Bluffs and Ngamoko Trig are rewarded by extensive views
over Lake Waikaremoana, Lake Waikareiti and the surrounding
countryside.
The walk to Lake Waikareiti not only gives access
to the crystal-clear waters of this lake, but is equally one
of the most beautiful forest walks in the Ureweras. The forest
is rich in native birds such as tuis, bellbirds, New Zealand
pigeons, parakeets, kakas, riflemen, robins, fantails. Other
short forest walks include Tawa Walk and Black Beech Walk.
Waterfalls are another distinctive feature of the
Ureweras. The Hinerau's Track follows the Aniwaniwa River, passing
a succession of waterfalls (the Aniwaniwa Waterfalls), including
the Momahaki, Te Tangi o Hinerau and Bridal Veil Falls. Closer
to the Visitor Centre the Papakorito Falls is a spectacular
waterfall within easy access of the road.
A round trip takes in the Onepoto Caves, a series
of caves and overhangs resulting from the landslide that formed
Lake Waikaremoana.
On the Rangitikei side, near Galatea, a number of
walks lead into the western part of Urewera National Park. From
the summits of Hikurangi and Maunga Tawhiuau the views reach
far over the Ureweras, as well as south towards Ruapehu and
Tongariro.
There are a few walks in the north of the park,
in the Whakatane and Waimana valleys, mostly through lowland
podocarp forest.
Tramping
Many tracks and routes lead deep into the Urewera
National Park, often following old Maori tracks.
The most popular is Lake Waikaremoana Track, a 3-4
day, moderately easy tramp that follows the western shore of
the lake as well as the ridge of the Panekiri Range. The track
passes through a variety of forest types, from lowland podocarp
forest to montane beech forest. Birdlife is abundant.
From Lake Waikaremoana, another interesting, moderately
difficult 3-4 day tramp loops past Lake Waikareiti and Manuhoa,
the highest point in the park (1392 m). From Manuhoa there are
good views of the lake, and on a clear day the great volcanoes
Tongariro and Ruapehu can be seen. High on Manuhoa the track
passes through high altitude rainforest, with its very distinctive
character conveyed by the profusion of mosses and lichens that
cover the trunks and branches of the silver beech trees.
Other tramping routes equipped with tracks, bridges
and huts and suitable for most trampers include the Whakatane
River and the Horomanga Valley.
Many other routes are suitable for more experienced
trampers only. They usually include rugged terrain and difficult
river crossings, and require good navigational skills. A tent
is often necessary.
Canoeing
- kayaking
For discovering Lake Waikaremoana, canoes
(sea-kayaks can be used instead) can provide a good alternative
to walking.
Fishing
Lake Waikaremoana contains both brown and rainbow trout. Lake
Waikareiti is not easy to fish, as its shores are surrounded
by bush. In the north of the park there is brown and rainbow
trout in the Whakatane River, and mostly rainbow in the Waimana.
There is good fishing in the upper reaches, but access requires
some tramping.
In the south-west of the park the Waiau River is for experienced
trampers only. It holds a large population of rainbow trout,
and fish up to 4-5 kg (9-11 lbs) are not uncommon.
Hunting
Hunting introduced animals such as pigs and goats is encouraged
in the park. Permits can be obtained from the Aniwaniwa Visitor
Centre.
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