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Egmont National Park (33,500 hectares/129
square miles) is entirely made of the cone and slopes of Mt
Taranaki (also called Mt Egmont), as well as the smaller volcanic
constructions of Pouakai and Kaitake Ranges.
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Specific
references for this page:
Gerald
Cubitt and Les Molloy 1994: Wild
New Zealand. New Holland.
Craig
Potton 1998: National
Parks of New Zealand. Craig Potton Publishing.
Llyod
Homer and Les Molloy 1988: The Fold of the Land - New
Zealand's Parks from the Air. DSIR/Allen & Unwin
The
People's Park - The Story of Egmont National Park.
Department of Conservation 1988.
New
Zealand National Parks. Collins Nature Heritage Series
1979.
Robbie
Burton & Maggie Atkinson 1998: A
Tramper's Guide to New Zealand National Parks. Reed
John
Cobb 1990: The Walking Tracks of New Zealand's National
Parks. Penguin.
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When the park was created in 1900 the area set
aside was described as the 'land comprised within a circle having
a radius of six miles, and a centre on the summit of Mount Egmont',
along with 'certain ranges of hills known as the Patua Ranges'.
This is the land above an altitude of 400-500 m (1312-1640')
on Mt Taranaki and Pouakai, and 200 m (656') on the Kaitake
Ranges. It is entirely forested up to the treeline, except for
swamp areas.
Reaching 2518 m (8261') above sea level, Mt Taranaki
stands high above the whole western North Island, far from any
other mountain. Thus exposed to the prevailing weather it is
the wettest place in the North Island, and supports lush native
rainforests that are matched only by those of Westland.
See below: Activities - what to see and do in Egmont National Park
Geological
setting
Volcanic activity started in Taranaki about 2 million
years ago, creating a volcano that was eroded to become the
Sugarloaf Islands just offshore New Plymouth. Volcanic activity
progressively moved south, creating the Kaitake Ranges (600,000
years ago), then the Pouakai Range (250,000 years ago), and
finally Mt Taranaki (120,000 years ago). This series is due
to the northward motion of the Australian tectonic plate over
a local hotspot, resulting in the centres of volcanism progressively
migrating southwards. Fanthams Peak, on the souther flank of
Mt Taranaki, is considered to be the continuation of this trend.
The whole ringplain that protrudes westward into
the sea was built over that time, mostly by the accumulation
of volcanic material brought down the volcanoes by lahars (highly
mobile volcanic mudflows). Most visible today are the thousands
of mounds scattered west of Mt Taranaki (outside the park),
created by three lahar episodes respectively 23,000, 12-16,000
and 7000 years ago. The plains in the east of Mt Taranaki were
created by a series of lahars between 50,000 and 20,000 years
ago, which were subsequently covered by layers of tephra.
Mt Taranaki is made of andesitic lava, like the
volcanoes of Tongariro National Park. The rocks are a mixture
of solid pyroclastic rocks (tephra), ashes, and lava flows,
which lack cohesion and are easily carved by erosion. The softer
deposits are dug into gullies and valleys, while the more resistant
lava flows form the protruding ribs that stretch down the sides
of the mountain.
See also Volcanoes
in New Zealand
Climatic
conditions
Isolated in an otherwise low land and open to the
weather conditions in all directions, Mt Taranaki creates its
own climatic conditions. Its slopes are among the wettest in
the North Island. While annual rainfall is 1000 mm (39 in.)
in Hawera and 1500 mm (59 in.) in New Plymouth, it reaches 6500-7500
mm (256-295 in.) at 1000 m (3280') altitude, and probably 8000
mm (315 in.) at 2000 m (6560').
However, while the mountain experiences 166 days
of rain annually, it also receives 2110 hours of sunshine, resulting
in plenty of fine weather. The weather is very changeable and
difficult to predict. Temperatures can drop very rapidly and
in winter soft snow can turn into ice in a matter of minutes.
Vegetation
Vegetation in Egmont National Park has two sets
of distinctive characteristics that are the result of having
developed on a tall, isolated volcano.
The first of these characteristics is that the change
in plant types and associations with altitude is especially
clear, in a series of zones that surround the mountain from
sea level to the summit. At the lowest altitudes (about 500
m/1640') grows a dense rainforest of kamahi interspersed with
tall rimu and rata, with some of the richest epiphytic growth
in New Zealand. As altitude rises the giant podocarps become
rarer and kamahi dominates, their trunks and branches often
covered in mosses, liverworts and filmy ferns.
Above 900 m (2952') is a belt of mountain cedar
(kaikawaka) and mountain totara, which forms the tree-line.
It is followed up to about 1200 m (3937') by sub-alpine scrub,
dense and almost impenetrable, rich in species such as leatherwood
(Olearia), mountain coprosma, Dracophyllum (inaka or
grass tree). Higher up tussock spreads to about 1400 m (4593'),
with red tussock and silver tussock as the main species. The
tussock fields contains many heabaceous plants including mountain
daisies (Celmisia), the Egmont Ourisia, native
lilies (Astelia), and orchids.
It is in this alpine zone that the second distinctive
characteristic of Egmont National Park's vegetation can be found:
a large number of species endemic to Mt Taranaki, or that have
produced populations or forms quite distinct from those of the
same species elsewhere. They are thought to have colonised from
either Ruapehu or the mountains of Nelson and Marlborough, before
evolving specific characters in isolation.
Another character related to isolation is the total
absence of beech in the park This is thought to be the consequence
of the limited dispersal power of beech seeds, which did not
allow the species to re-colonise the mountain after destruction
by volcanic events. The seeds of kamahi, by contrast, are easily
dispersed, allowing the species to regain ground quickly after
volcanic destruction.
Wildlife
The North Island brown kiwi is found in the forests of Egmont
National park. Other birds include New Zealand pigeons, bellbirds,
tomtits, riflemen, New Zealand pipits.
The forests provide habitat for many species of insects, as
well as spiders, millipedes, centipedes. An interesting invertebrate
is Peripatus, a small animal of very old ancestry which shares
characters with both arthropods and annelids.
The park is especially rich in moths. Several species are either
endemic to Mt Taranaki, or shared only with Mt Ruapehu. Other
species, very common in the South Island, are found in the North
Island only on Mt Taranaki, thereby adding to the unique ecological
character of Mt Taranaki in New Zealand.
Short
and day walks
Accessed via three roads high on the
flanks of Mt Taranaki, the montane forests and the alpine areas
of Egmont National Park are among the most accessible in New
Zealand.
At the altitude of the roadends the forest is dominated
by kamahi. A number of walks are available to discover and enjoy
the special character of this montane rainforest, where the
twisted and tangled trunks and branches are covered in mosses,
lichens and filmy ferns.
With increasing altitude the succession of altitudinal
vegetation zones is clearly delineated, from the kamahi forest
and its upper zone of kaikawaka (mountain cedar), through scrub,
and into the herbfields of tussock and alpine plants.
Depending on the tracks chosen a number
of volcanic features can be observed, such as the lava flows
of Dieffenbach's Cliffs and Humphries Castle.
Several tracks lead into the Pouakai Range, with
spectacular views of Mt Taranaki and the Ahukawakawa Swamp.
Walks
to the summit
There is a route to the summit from each of the roadends. These
are long walks in more difficult and steep terrain, especially
exposed to the weather conditions.
Tramping
The Around-the Mountain Circuit is a popular tramping
track, usually done in 5 days, or 3-4 days if the summer higher
altitude alternative track is used. Huts are conveniently located
about one day apart. The track passes through some of the most
spectacular parts of the park, high on the sides of Mt Taranaki.
The Pouakai Ranges also offer a combination of tramping
routes.
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