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The western Southern Alps form a long and narrow
strip of mountain land rising very steeply east of the Alpine
Fault towards the main divide. The summits of the main divide
are typically between 15-25 km (9-15 miles) east of the Alpine
Fault. Rocks are schist,
with a gradual transition with the greywacke
that is found further east. The rate of uplift is very high,
exceeding 10 mm/year (0.4 in.).
Precipitation is considerable, increasing from about 3000 mm
(118 in.) per year on the coast to 5000 mm (197 in.) in the
foothills, 10,000 mm (394 in.) on the ranges and 15,000 mm (591
in.) in the high parts of the main divide.
All these factors combine to produce a very steep and dissected
landscape, with deep valleys, steep rivers, gorges, and sharp
ridges.
A consequence of the high precipitation is the
presence of large snowfields and neves, as with the Olivine
Ice Plateau in Mt Aspiring National Park, and the Garden of
Eden and Garden of Allah Ice Plateaus on the main divide north-east
of Mt Cook. The Franz-Joseph and Fox glaciers, which flow to
the lowlands of the West Coast down to an altitude of 300 m
(984'), also originate in large neves high on the west side
of Mt Cook.
In addition to these purely geomorphological
characters, the high rainfall also favours the growth of dense
and continuous forest, which further contributes to the wildness
and impenetrability of these mountains.The lowland podocarp
forests are replaced by southern beech
(Nothofagus) above 500-750 m (1640-2640'), covering
all slopes from valley floor to timberline, while a very dense
understory further adds to their impenetrability.
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